I feel the need to give a shout out to the wonderful Pennyghael Stores  on the way West from Craignure on the Island of Mull. Open six days a week, the cheerful owner makes everyone welcome.  She makes wonderful soup and sells a good range of groceries and gifts.  It’s worth cycling over that mountain pass just to call in for soup, coffee or cake -or all three.

Things went downhill after Pennyghael, though not geographically. Bad driving, which is common,  turned murderous at one point. The driver was a bit disconcerted to find me taking a photo of his car further down the road . Police HQ  were not too interested but the local police were and are coming to Iona to take a statement. The driver clearly mistook me for someone he could try to kill . Wrong call.


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